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MOUNTED BY HAND. INSPECTED BEFORE BOXING. GUARANTEED IN WRITING.

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Care guide

A mounted kit is more durable than most people expect and it fails in one specific way. Edges. Everything below is about keeping them down.

The vinyl is 21 mil Substance, primed to bare plastic and post-heated into every curve at 176 degrees. The face of the panel can take a beating. The perimeter is where water pressure, solvent and heat get underneath.

Washing

Hand wash with mild soap and water. A soft sponge or a microfiber mitt is enough. Dish soap is fine. Anything sold as a degreaser is not.

Wipe along an edge, not into it. Dragging a sponge across a perimeter over and over works the same way a fingernail does, slowly.

Rinse with a normal hose. Dry with a microfiber towel or let it air dry.

The pressure washer

This is the one that ends kits.

A pressure washer held close to a graphic edge will lift vinyl that was mounted correctly. It is not a question of how well the kit was built. Enough pressure at the right angle will get under any edge on any panel from any manufacturer.

If you use one, keep the wand at least two feet back, keep it moving, and never aim directly at a perimeter, a seam, or a vent cutout. Approach edges at a shallow angle, never head on.

Pressure washing damage is not covered by the guarantee. That is not a technicality, it is the single most common way a good mount gets ruined after it leaves.

Chemicals to avoid

Brake cleaner. Carb and contact cleaner. Acetone. Citrus degreasers. Anything with a strong solvent in it.

These attack the adhesive first and the print second. A splash that gets wiped off quickly is usually survivable. A soaked rag left sitting on a panel is not.

If something spills, rinse with water sooner rather than later.

Mud

Let it soak, then rinse it off. Do not scrape dried mud off a graphic with a plastic scraper or the edge of a glove.

Dried mud comes off with water and time. It does not come off with force, and force is what finds the edges.

Fuel and chain lube

Wipe fuel spills off immediately. Gasoline sits on top of vinyl for a few seconds and starts working on it after that, especially near the shroud and tank junction.

Chain lube overspray on the rear fender and side panel is easier to remove when it is fresh. Once it collects dirt and bakes on, the only thing that removes it is a solvent, and the solvent is worse than the overspray.

Sun and storage

UV fades printed vinyl over time. So does heat.

A bike stored in direct sun, or parked in a closed trailer in July, ages faster than one kept in a garage. If you have a choice, keep it covered and out of the light.

Plastic shine products

Most of them are silicone or solvent based. Some are safe on vinyl and some are not, and the label rarely tells you which.

If you use one, apply it to a rag rather than spraying it on the bike, keep it off the graphics, and stay well clear of every edge.

What normal wear looks like

Roost marks on the leading edge of the shrouds and number plate. Fine scratching where boots contact the side panels. Gradual fading over a full season in the sun.

This is a dirt bike. Vinyl that has been ridden looks like it has been ridden, and none of the above means the mount failed.

If an edge does lift

Stop washing it and photograph it under a bright light held at an angle to the surface.

If the kit arrived that way, that is what the guarantee covers. Thirty days, one photo, and the affected panels get remade and shipped free. Details are on [The Preset Guarantee].

If it lifted later from a pressure washer or a solvent, we will still tell you honestly what happened and what your options are.